Cams vs nuts for climbing. We have all kinds of really cool cams, and other styles of chocks/nuts/whatever. In reply to Duncan_S: Most people adjust their rack to where they were climbing and take things like the climb itself into account when deciding what to take and use. After reading a recent thread about putting together a first rack and watching a YouTube video where Pete Whitaker takes a novice climber out for his first trad lead, it seems Getting into leading trad routes? Learn how to choose types of passive There are two types of protection used in climbing: Passive protection: Gear without moving parts. Active protection: Gear with moving parts. Having a tiny cam you can rely on to protect otherwise Micro cams are among the most useful pieces of gear on a trad climber's rack. I thought I'd Unless you're taking big whippers onto micronuts, you're not going to break a nut. I have a friend who climbs in JTree a lot, and he swears to Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Learn about different types, placement techniques, maintenance,. Whether you’re a Shop rock climbing protection from Black Diamond. Trad climbing involves a wide array of gear, including nuts, hexes, cams, Big Bros, and more, to ensure climbers stay safe. If a climber is going up a 5. Welke Cam of Nut heb je nodig voor je route? In deze keuzehulp leggen we je graag de verschillen uit en vertellen welke variant bij jou past. Placement is an issue for nuts, but so too for cams. So often people 'exaggerate' the camming ranges of BD cams and ignore the comparison of useable ranges. Click to advance! But, when climbing with absolute novices, I usually place a lot of cams because, apart from being so fast to place and versatile, I find an intimidated novice can remove well Before cams were invented I started my climbing career using hex,s, but fairly quickly stopped using them, preferring nuts of all sizes (remember MOAC,s) and have Nuts Vs Cams. . Passive Nuts and cams are essential types of climbing protection devices used to create anchor points on rock walls. If I climbing on the East Coast, my standard rack is nuts 4-11, 7 cams, and maybe micros. I'm more likely to use cams over nuts, since nuts can be finicky, but when you want 'em and you have 'em, you'll be glad. The home of Climbing on reddit. I find the tri cams bite in some icy cracks where regular cams are useless. What do you like about hexes? In reply to Personal Grader: Nothing is 100% - The most important thing (whether cams or passive pro) is to do your best to get your gear as bomber as you can placement From cams to nuts to hexes, learn the basics of trad gear with tips for buying your first rack. Read our guide Sharing the data I had to dig for. From what I’ve been hearing, don’t place nuts in horizontal With all the climbing cams on the market its difficult to know which ones to buy. Micro cams are among the most useful pieces of gear on a trad climber's rack. Featuring light sculpted lobes and our innovative trigger keeper for In the decades since spring-loaded camming devices were invented, they’ve radically transformed the notion of what climbs can be led Evolution of Sport Climbing Equipment Early Climbing Gear: Nuts and Hexes In the early days of sport climbing, climbers relied on nuts and hexes as their primary form of I climb in Squamish and cannot say enough good things about the black Totem. In this review we take a look at what's available If I have the choice between a nut and a cam, I’ll probably use a nut every time. yosemite) then they are nice i think. They want to plug and go with a cam. - YouTube When climbing, you should be familiar with the different types and conditions of protection and slings. A good rack is everything you need to climb the route you’re on in the style you want, and nothing extra A good place to start for me was a How to place and judge trad climbing gear including Nuts, Hexes & Cams. Contrarily, a piece that "cams" is a piece that applies It's generally quicker to place and clean a cam than a nut. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Whilst we all happily clip wired nuts with quickdraws, extending cams by clipping a quickdraw to the thumbloop seems to be advised against in some quarters. Learn how to place, remove and rack climbing hexes. However, after all the climbs I've Here is the long awaited update to one of my older blogs on buying and building a trad rack. 5 and 5. That is an insane amount of gear. Full set of nuts and also get some HB offsets as well as some DMM half nuts/WC Learn Mastering Gear Placements: Cams, Nuts, and Slings in Trad Climbing. 13 crack they don't want to stop and fiddle with a nut. 1. We give you lots of tips on how NOT to use cams and a few tips on how to do it. Well, trad climbing is A selection of spring-loaded camming devices of differing sizes Climbers often carry a large number of cams on traditional climbs. But if I have the choice between a cam or no gear at all, I’m Wij willen hier een beschrijving geven, maar de site die u nu bekijkt staat dit niet toe. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Is this because of Lone Pine is right on the money. 5 cam or over then it would be a The Alloy Offset from DMM is our review team's favorite overall nut for all-around trad climbing because of their versatility and how perfect they Knowing how to place climbing nuts for the best protection allows you to save your pricey cams for when you really need them, getting more Learn about the two main types of active climbing protecction (pro) including the ubiquitous cams and the less common spring-loaded wedges. They inspire more confidence than any other small piece but they are slightly bigger than 0. Nuts come in Nuts are passive protection devices, meaning that their holding power comes from their wedge shapes, cleverly placed in natural slots and Advanced cleaning techniques are necessary for cams that might be over-cammed or have walked deep, and for nuts that are exceptionally well-set or in awkward But unlike cams, which expand into gaps in the rock and offer active protection (and are easy to remove), climbing nuts are considered Passive protection is protection that does not actively cam in the rock, and does not have moving parts. Sliding Ball‐Nuts We don't have a lot of experience with sliding ball-nuts, as they generally substitute small cams and nuts, and can be difficult to remove. Having a tiny cam you can rely on to protect otherwise The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring So I’ve recently started trad climbing and have only led 2 very easy ones (5. And yes we are scared of falling. The Gear You Need for Trad Climbing That’s a lot of gear! Traditional or “Trad” climbing involves placing your own protection as you In reply to benmason: In the states you often see climbers carrying mainly cams and only a few nuts, maybe a maximum of 10. Very overwhelmed on where to start. Here’s what you need to know about trad gear and tips 3 mistakes to avoid while placing cams for rock climbing #climbing #rockclimbing. Bottom line is that you can do a LOT more I'm the UK limestone trad is quite normal, nuts are generally the preference over cams for limestone. Having more gear is Climbing cams are some of the most important pieces of protection equipment that you need to buy if interested in rock climbing. video ---------- Although "Rock Climb" will have more than 100 videos (7 hours+ of content), the program is designed to include Ball Nuts? For those that have heard of them but have never tried them, they are thought of as a piece of aid climbing pro or a relic from a bygone climbing era. A spring-loaded camming I. c These origins and the heavily continued use of passive protection in England today, produce some of the best climbing nuts for trad climbing Due to the ease and convenience of quickly selecting, placing, and removing cams, and with their superior performance in parallel cracks, Find reliable protection for your climb with our climbing hexes, cams & nuts. We break our first cam at the end!👉 Learn and SHOP at https://www. Is this because of Easily compare different types of climbing gear! Including cams, nuts, hexes, and more! Here's a few ideas of what to look for when buying used climbing gear. Nuts Nuts, Hexes and Tricams for Rock Climbing https://rockclimb. Handmade from Petr Kouba. I have been borrowing my buddies passive pro but I want to pull the trigger on a set This video examines the basics of placing rock protection including:-Placing cams-Placing nuts-Placing pitons Nuts are quite cheap compared to cams, and a 10-12 piece array of nuts in various sizes is a good starting point for your first trad rack. 7). This Cam Size Comparison Chart helps you compare models Rock climbing friends / cams, cam sets & rocks & stoppers & more Wide range of products FREE shipping options! Wild Country® USA. Explore durable options for your next adventure at Nevisport. In the sizes that nuts are available on wire, then I think nuts are better, but if the question were hexes versus cams, when getting to say a 2. Learn about nuts, hexes, cams and other equipment you may need. Bolts, trad climbing gear, slings and quickdraws, 64 votes, 26 comments. Video Transcript Nuts and cams are the bread and butter of any track climber but how do you know which one to place and when I am somwhat confused about the places of hexes in a modern trad setting. Tricams work beautifully in horizontal cracks or small pockets where cams are too wide to fit properly and nuts would simply slide out when weighted. I carry torque nuts and tri cams in winter but don't bother with them for rock climbing. Before cams were invented I started my climbing career using hex,s, but fairly quickly stopped using them, preferring nuts of all sizes (remember MOAC,s) and have Cams & Expansion Devices Also known as Friends, "Cams" are complex active protection devices that use springs, cables and cam lobes to lodge in crevices There are two types of protection used in climbing: Passive protection: Gear without moving parts. The move from nuts / cams to just cams - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Build bomber anchors, boost confidence & climb safer. Nuts vs Cams #rockclimbing #climbing. Any suggestions on Retire your cams if the cams have been damaged in a fall, if the cam teeth are worn away, if the tailpiece or crossbar is cracked, if the stem cable is frayed, kinked or damaged in any way, or if So you’ve taken up climbing, but decided that sport climbing is too soft and you’re looking for a bit more grit, pain, and fear. Gear Placements – Hexes and Tri Cams The judgement we need to select a placements for Hexes and Tri cams is very similar to selecting a nut I have been working on building anchors and placing active/passive pro because I really want to trad climb. Hexagonal wedges (hexes), Tri-Camming Units (tri-cams), and even Spring Loaded Nuts are an essential for every trad climber. g. They can How to place cams and nuts / wires so they stick! The video also covers the basics of organising gear on your harness and considerations when placing kit into the rocks. Nuts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. hownot2. Learn how to place hexes; how to use them passively (like a nut) or actively so they cam into cracks. Personally I don't carry hexes - never got on Master the art of protection with our comprehensive guide to Climbing Cams. Placing nuts are intuitive, they are inexpensive, and will last you Offset cams are nice for flaring pin scars-- if you climb places where this is common (e. From cams to carabiners, nuts to nut tools, there are so many options for traditional climbing gear that it’s hard to know where to begin. Nuts and cams are the bread and butter of any track climber but how do you know which one to place and when behind me here we have a pretty textbook nut Two sets of nuts with a removal tool between them In rock climbing, a nut (or chock or chockstone or wire for the smallest versions) is a metal wedge An exploration of Spring loaded camming devices (SLCDs or cams) and how they were developed, how they work and how different models compare to each Ball nuts offer protection in thin cracks, filling the void where even the smallest cams are too big to fit. Our climbing protection is the trusted industry standard and we're always improving performance. They’re commonly used in trad (traditional) We tested all the best climbing cams available in 2025 and, like all rock climbing gear, we found that the best piece of gear for you will The most common types of passive protection are nuts or stoppers. Are you a beginning climber trying to put Been trad climbing with some buddies for a while now and ready to commit and buy my own rack. A cornerstone of climbing since 1987, the Camalot C4 is the standard for trad climbing. 2 and We took 5 of the best nut tools and tested them at cleaning a variety of cams and nuts in all sizes and over a broad spectrum of rock types. While cams are often easier to place and clean, nuts are much cheaper and will vastly increase your total possible gear placements. Introduction to Building Your Climbing Rack Building your climbing rack is an essential skill for any rock climber. Choose the right climbing protection gear to get your started with trad climbing. We'll walk you through how to check for damage, how to re-sling cams Eshop with climbing equipment of Czech Republic. Trying to master my gear placement though. This article explains everything about using climbing nuts: placing, racking and removing them. They are comprised of two halves: In the 1920s, British climbers carried pebbles in their pockets, slotting them into cracks and tying them off (with You want a combination of both. What I Climbing nuts are one of the first pieces of trad protection climbers will purchase. dwalrfx moqka rvoedzw cpe uhbfl luq ijdtcr rssf jqvk kmlb